Sweater weather is back!
The evenings are drawing in, jumpers are back out of the wardrobes, and log burners everywhere are suddenly looking delightful again.
The excitement of lighting that first fire of the season is undeniably off the charts. However, for many of us, it can also prove to be quite tricky too.
You have kiln-dried logs, kindling sticks, and firelighters at the ready. You light the fire, eagerly manifesting that perfect autumn glow, but instead, the stove refuses to cooperate, the glass gets cloudy, and smoke goes each and every way except up.
What in the name of hellfire is going on?
Let’s pause for a second: your stove and flue have been unused for months. Cool, stagnant air may have settled inside the flue, and once it’s there, it doesn’t want to budge. It’s as if that cool air is claiming squatter’s rights!
Come here, frustrated fire starter. We’ve got this!
We have a blueprint for fire lighting success. A tried-and-trusted method you can use to light not only the first fire of the season, but every fire after that too.
The top-down fire lighting method, also known as the Scandinavian fire lighting method, is how we recommend lighting your log burner throughout the burning season. It helps the fire establish steadily, warms the stove and flue more gradually, encourages better airflow, and helps you get more useful heat from the logs you burn.
So no, it is not just a nifty little hack for when your fire is being awkward and not playing ball. It’s a much better fire lighting routine to deploy throughout the whole burning season.
When you use the right fuel in the right order, lighting a log fire becomes so much easier and more enjoyable. In fact, once you’ve tried it, you may well find yourself telling your fire-loving friends and family about it too.
So what exactly is the top-down fire lighting method?
The top down fire lighting method is a way of building a fire so it burns downwards and the heat rises upwards steadily and efficiently, instead of trying to fight its way up from the bottom up.
Here at The Log People, this is how we do it:
Hardwood logs at the bottom on a thin bed of ash for long-lasting flames.
Softwood logs above, in the opposite direction, to build heat.
Kindling on top to start the fire.
Natural firelighters tucked into the kindling.
Fully open all the air vents, light the firelighters at the top, shut the stove door, and let the fire work its way down through the layers.
Simple.
And it’s amazing to watch! No poking. No standing there wondering whether the stove has taken offence to something you’ve said. Just the right wood, in the right order, doing the right job at the right time.
What you need for The Log People’s top down fire lighting method
Kiln dried hardwood and softwood fire lighting bundles from The Log People give you everything you need to build and sustain log fires.
To light your log burner The Log People way, you need four things:
- Kiln-dried hardwood logs for a base of long-lasting flames and sustained heat.
- Kiln-dried softwood logs to build the fire and raise the temperature.
- Kindling sticks to get those first lively flames going.
- Natural wood wool firelighters to get things started easily.
Think of it like this:
Firelighters to start. Kindling to catch. Softwood to build. Hardwood to sustain.
That’s The Log People’s twist on the traditional Scandinavian top-down fire-lighting recipe.
Hardwood works best once the fire is going, but it’s not easy to light when cold. Trying to light hardwood before there’s enough heat is a bit like trying to light a brick. It might be possible, but it’s not practical.
Softwood, on the other hand, is far more cooperative when it comes to building fires and raising stove temperatures. It catches more readily, helps build the heat, and gives the hardwood the high temperatures it needs to combust cleanly.
Kindling gives you the quick, lively flames needed to start the fire. Natural wax-dipped firelighters also make things easier and don’t leave that unpleasant chemical smell on your hands.
If you’re missing one part of this setup, you can still build a fire, but it might take more effort than necessary.
And honestly, who wants extra hassle when you’re trying to create an ideallic cosy autumn atmosphere?
Shop the method:
- Shop our all-in-one hardwood and softwood fire lighting bundles.
- Shop our kindling and natural firelighters
A little note from The Log People
Sarah and Sam from The Log People are able to provide a lot of fire lighting wisdom from many years of experience in lighting log fires.
Every burning season, we speak to customers with good kiln-dried logs and a modern eco stove who still struggle to get the fire going properly. And, perhaps not surprisingly, the logs become the prime suspect. But most of the time, it’s not the logs at all.
If you’re struggling to light a fire with kiln-dried logs, a few small things are probably ganging up on you that you didn’t even know about.
- The flue is cold.
- The vents have been closed down too soon.
- You don’t have enough kindling and softwood.
- You’re adding hardwood when the stove is too cold for clean combustion
- The stove has been overloaded.
- The chimney is ready for a sweep
Fire building is a bit like baking a cake: the ingredients matter, but so does the recipe. How you build the fire, the timing, and the order of steps can mean the difference between a fire that burns well and one that struggles behind a cloudy stove glass.
That’s why we recommend the top down method.
It primes the fire for a strong start. It gives the stove and flue time to reach clean combustion temperatures. It gives the air a chance to move around freely. And it gives each type of fuel a job it does well.
Good firewood matters.
Good airflow matters just as much.
But the way you build your fire matters more than you might realise.
Why the first fire of the season can often be tricky
Your stove and flue work best when warm air rises sufficiently enough. That’s called the drawer.
That upward movement is what helps pull smoke away from the stove and out through the chimney. Once everything is warm and moving, the fire usually behaves as you’d expect.
Usually. That’s the operative word!
Experience tells us that the first fire of the season can be different, though.
After sitting unused through spring and summer, cool air can settle inside the flue. Instead of smoke pulling cleanly upward, it can struggle to escape. That’s when you can experience a slow start, cloudy glass, excess smoke, or that slightly alarming moment where the smoke seems to have decided the living room is a better destination than the chimney.
Not what you expected when you clicked your heels together to light the first fire of the season.
Other possible reasons for a smoky fire include damp wood, closed vents, poor ventilation, cold and damp weather conditions, a blocked chimney, or a stove that’s simply due for some TLC.
But if it is your first fire after a few months of not using the stove, a cold flue is a very common culprit. It even has a name: Cold Chimney Syndrome.
That’s when cool, stagnant air sits in the chimney and makes it harder for smoke to draw upwards properly. Very annoying. Very confusing. And, frustratingly, it can send smoke in the entirely wrong direction.
The solution isn’t to add more logs and keep your fingers crossed that it’ll work. In fact, that often makes things worse.
The aim is to warm the stove and flue gradually, get the air flowing in the right direction, and build the fire steadily.
That is exactly where the top down method earns its place.
Why we recommend top down fire lighting all season
The first fire of the season is often when stove users tend to notice any problems the most. The stove has been sitting unused for months, the flue is cold, and the air can feel damp, heavy and reluctant to move.But the top-down method is not just for early autumn. It’s not a one-night-only performance. It is one of the simplest and most reliable ways to light your log burner throughout the whole burning season.
Lighting from the top helps the fire establish more controllably. The kindling catches first, the softwood builds the heat, and the hardwood takes over once the stove is properly warmed and has reached optimal burning temperatures.
For you, that means less poking. Less opening the stove door to “help it along”. Less overloading. And definitely less frowning with your hands on your hips wondering why your log burner has become such a rebel all of a sudden!
Use it in autumn. Use it in winter. Use it on a wet Tuesday in February when nobody has the time, patience or emotional resilience to put up with a petulant, sulky stove.
Remember:
Hardwood at the bottom.
Softwood above in the opposite direction, to build the heat.
Kindling and firelighters on top.
Light from the top, open the vents, close the stove door, and let the heat and airflow combo work its magic.
Is the top down method more efficient?
Yes – and that’s one of the main reasons we recommend it so much.The top-down fire lighting method isn’t just a fire lighting hack trending on your socials. It helps the fire establish in a steadier, more controlled and efficient way – using less fuel, generating more heat with lower emissions.
That matters because the start-up phase is often when a fire is at its smokiest.
If the fire struggles, smoulders, or gets overloaded too quickly, you can get more smoke, cloudy glass and less useful heat from the wood you’re burning.
Research from SINTEF Energy Research has shown that lighting from above, with logs at the base and kindling or small wood pieces at the top, can reduce particle emissions and help create a more even combustion process.
Defra’s Burn Better, Breathe Better guidance also makes the case for dry Ready To Burn certified wood fuel, explaining that wood with a moisture content of 20% or less produces less smoke and is more heat-efficient.
So what does all that mean in plain English?
A fire that lights cleanly is efficient. A fire that burns only dry wood, below 20% moisture, is livelier and healthier. And a fire with the right airflow, Ready To Burn certified wood fuel, and an effective fire-lighting method is far more likely to give you a roaring fire that’ll keep you cosy hour after hour.
Of course, top-down lighting won’t work if something’s wrong with the ingredients. Wet wood, poor airflow, a blocked chimney, closed vents, or an appliance that hasn’t been maintained for a while can still cause fire-lighting woes.
But for a healthy stove and flue combined with Ready To Burn certified kiln-dried logs, the top down fire lighting method is one of the cleanest, steadiest and most efficient ways to start a fire – and we highly recommend it.
Need the right fuel for the top-down fire-lighting method?
Make sure you have Ready To Burn certified kiln-dried hardwood, softwood, kindling sticks, and natural firelighters stocked up so you have all your fire-lighting ingredients at your fingertips.
So what’s the difference between top down and bottom-up fire lighting?
Many log burner owners assume the best way to build a fire is from the bottom up. Kindle the base with a couple of fire lighters. Then add logs when you think the timing is right (though it’s really just a best guess), keep your fingers crossed, and hope for the best.
And yes, it can work. It does work! People have lit fires that way since the dawn of man. But in our experience, it’s not always dependable, especially when you’re trying to light a log fire in damp, cold conditions.
But a bottom-up fire can also need more attention, because the small flame at the start has to fight its way up through the fuel. If the logs are too large, the kindling is too sparse, or the stove and flue are cold, the fire can struggle before it has even properly started. That’s when you get smoke, smouldering logs and cloudy glass instead of that cosy, roaring fire that Autumn dreams are made of.
The top down method flips the whole thing around.
You place the larger, denser logs at the bottom, smaller logs above in the opposite direction, and kindling at the top with a couple of fire lighters. When lit, the fire burns down gradually through the layers and warms the stove and flue seamlessly.
You might also hear it called the upside-down fire method, reverse fire method, or Scandinavian fire lighting method. The names differ, but the idea is the same: larger logs at the bottom, smaller logs above, kindling and firelighters at the top.
In simple terms, the bottom-up method asks the fire to climb. The top-down method lets the fire work down while the heat rises. It only really makes sense when you try it. And when you do, you won’t look back.
The Log People’s twist on the Scandinavian fire lighting method
We’re all familiar with traditional recipes that have enjoyed a little inventive twist here and there. So this is The Log People’s version of the tried-and-tested Scandinavian top down fire-lighting method.Our twist is simple: add softwood logs to the mix, because their fire-building capabilities are all too often overlooked and underestimated.
Softwood is a fire-building superpower. It’s not as dense as hardwood, so it catches easily at lower temperatures, burns faster, and helps raise the stove temperature so the hardwood can combust cleanly.
Hardwood is denser. It catches at a higher temperature, burns slower, provides longer-lasting heat, and helps keep the fire going once everything is established.
In other words:
Softwood builds the fire. Hardwood keeps it going.
That’s the part many people miss. Hardwood is great, but it’s not the best for starting and building a fire from cold. If you try to light hardwood without enough heat, it will char and emit smoke. This isn’t a sign that your logs are wet but a signal that your stove hasn’t reached optimal combustion temperatures.
Softwood gives the fire the lift it needs. Hardwood gives it the staying power.
Together, hardwood and softwood are a match made in fire-building heaven. No wood type is better than the other. They simply perform two different jobs.
How to build a top down fire in a log burner
Before you start, make sure your stove is clean enough to use, with a small bed of ash at the base, your vents fully open, and your chimney swept once to twice a year.
Every stove is different, so always follow your stove manufacturer’s instructions. Then build your fire by following these simple steps:
Step 1: Place kiln dried hardwood logs at the bottom
Start with two or three kiln dried hardwood logs at the bottom of your stove.
These are your long-burning logs that provide high heat. Their place in this process is not to catch instantly. They create a solid base and take over once the stove reaches high, optimal burning temperatures.
Hardwood works best once the fire is established, but it can be slow to catch if you try to light it too soon. This doesn’t mean your kiln-dried logs are wet. Trying to light hardwood from cold is a lot like trying to light a brick.
It might be possible in theory, but in practice, it’s frustrating and inefficient.
Step 2: Add softwood logs on top
Next, place one or two kiln-dried softwood logs on top of the hardwood in the opposite direction. This helps create space for airflow between the layers.Softwood is lighter and faster-burning than hardwood, which makes it ideal for the early stage of the fire-building process. Its job is to help build heat inside the stove so the hardwood below can catch cleanly when the stove temperature is high enough.
Hardwood and softwood are not interchangeable. We see them as teammates.
Softwood gets the fire going. Hardwood keeps it glowing – hour after hour.
Step 3: Add kindling on top
Now add a few sticks of dry kindling on top of the softwood.Kindling catches quickly and creates those small, lively flames needed to get the logs going. Without enough kindling, the logs won’t have enough heat and energy to combust cleanly. In our opinion, you can’t have too much kindling to start!
Step 4: Nestle in natural wood wool firelighters
Place a couple of natural wood wool firelighters into the kindling.
Natural wood wool firelighters are ideal because they catch easily and burn long enough to get the kindling going properly. They are simple, reliable and far more pleasant to work with than the cheap chemical-based variety.
For the first fire of the season, this matters because you need a steady, confident start to get any stubborn air in the flue shifting.
For every other fire throughout the season, the same approach still matters. Why struggle when there’s a simpler, more effective way?
Step 5: Open the vents and light from the top
Make sure your air vents are open, following your stove manufacturer’s instructions.Your fire needs plenty of air to get going, especially when the stove and flue are cold. If the air supply is restricted too soon, the fire can struggle, smoulder and smoke before it has had a fair chance to establish itself.
Then light the firelighters at the top. Close the stove door as recommended for your appliance and let the fire burn down gradually.
Try not to interfere too much. We know. It is tempting. You want to poke it, move it, help it, or even give it a little encouragement.
But the top-down method works best when you let each layer do its job. No frantic poking required.
Top tip: If your fire regularly struggles at this stage, check your fuel first. Properly dried logs, dry kindling and natural firelighters make the whole process much easier.
A quick word on air vents
Good firewood matters. So does good airflow.
Before you light your fire, open the air vents fully, following your stove manufacturer’s instructions. Your fire needs a strong supply of air at the start, especially when the stove and flue are cold.
Once the kindling has caught, the softwood is burning well, and the hardwood has started to take, you can begin adjusting the vents gradually.
The important word there is gradually.
Closing the air vents too soon can starve the fire before it’s established. This can cause smouldering, smoky glass, poor heat, and a fire that just doesn’t perform well.
A good fire should have lively flames as it gets going. Not a roaring furnace. Not a sulky smoulder. Somewhere happily in the middle.
Every stove is different, so always follow the guidance for your own appliance. But as a general rule: give the fire plenty of air to start, let it establish properly, then adjust the vents once everything is burning cleanly.
Is a stove thermometer worth having?
Yes, definitely!A stove thermometer is a simple, inexpensive little gadget, but it can tell you a lot. Think of it as a sat-nav for your log burner! It helps you see whether your stove is running too cool, too hot, or in a sensible operating range.
That matters because a fire that is too cool can smoulder and produce more smoke, while a stove that is running too hot can waste fuel and may risk damaging the appliance.
In other words, it takes a lot of the guesswork out of log burning.
For newer stove owners, a stove thermometer is especially useful. You start to learn what your stove looks like, sounds like and feels like when it is burning well. Over time, you get better at knowing when to add more air, when to reduce airflow, and when to leave it alone.
Learning when to leave the fire alone is an underrated skill. A stove thermometer is a guide, not a replacement for your stove manual. Where you place it matters, and different stoves and flue setups behave differently.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and ask your installer or chimney sweep if you are unsure.
Still, for the burning season, it can be a very handy bit of kit. Less guesswork. Better burning. Happier stove.
Why Ready To Burn kiln dried logs matter
The top-down method works best when the wood is sufficiently dry below 20% moisture.
If your logs are too wet, building a fire becomes much harder. Wet wood is difficult to light, produces more smoke, creates less heat, produces high emissions, and can leave harmful creosote deposits in your chimney and flue.
In simple terms, burning wet logs means the fire wastes energy burning off water before it can provide useful heat. That’s not cosy at all. It just makes things harder.
We sell Ready To Burn certified kiln dried logs!
Ready To Burn certified firewood has been independently tested to confirm it has a moisture content of 20% or less.
At The Log People, our kiln-dried logs are Ready to Burn certified, which means they are ready for immediate burning. Store them properly in a log store to keep them dry and well ventilated, and they will do exactly what you expect them to do:
Light easily. Burn cleanly. Provide a high heat.
Common fire lighting mistakes
Most fire lighting problems come down to a few familiar mistakes that many stove owners don’t even know they’re making. The good news is that they are usually easy to fix.
Mistake 1: Trying to light hardwood in a cold stove
Hardwood logs are brilliant for long-lasting heat, but it needs a good bed of heat before it will ignite cleanly and perform at its best.If you put a big hardwood log into a stove that hasn’t reached high burning temperatures and expect instant flames, you will be left feeling disappointed.
The fix is simple: Use softwood to build the heat first. Let hardwood take over once the fire is established.
Mistake 2: Not using enough kindling
Kindling creates the flame and heat needed to get the logs going. If your firelighter burns out before the logs catch, your fire probably lacked enough dry kindling.
A small gathering of kindling sticks will not cut it. Give the fire something to work with from the start.
Don’t be shy!
Mistake 3: Closing the vents too soon
The early stage of the fire needs plenty of air.
If you shut the air down too quickly, the fire can smoulder, smoke and struggle. Let it establish properly first, then adjust gradually when your fire has enough energy.
Don’t cut off its oxygen supply before it has a chance to get going.
Mistake 4: Overloading the stove
Too many logs in the fire is one of the reasons why log fires struggle to get going because air cannot move freely around compacted logs
More wood does not automatically mean a quicker or better fire.
If you add too much fuel at the start, the air cannot move freely around your logs and your flames will be smothered.
Build the fire steadily and let each layer catch.
We get it. Patience isn’t exciting, but it delivers results.
Good things come to those who wait.
Mistake 5: Using logs that are not dry enough
Lighting wet wood is hard work. In fact, it’s a bit like trying to light a brick! It’s harder to light, gives off less useful heat, and produces considerably more smoke.
Use Ready To Burn certified kiln dried logs and stack them properly in a well ventilated log store once they arrive.
Your stove and chimney will thank you and your glass door will stay cleaner for longer – which is always a good sign.
If your fire keeps struggling, check the moisture temperature of your logs first. If they’re below 20%, go through all the steps above.
The right combination of Ready To Burn certified kiln dried logs, dry kindling and natural firelighters makes the top-down method much easier to get right.
First fire of the season checklist
Before lighting your first fire of the season, run through a quick check.
It may be tempting to skip it, but getting the stage right sets the scene for the rest of the performance.
Check your stove
Make sure the stove is clean enough to use, the door closes properly, the glass is intact, and the rope seals are in good condition.If something looks damaged or not quite right, get it checked by a professional stove servicing agent before using it.
Those cosy nights in require time and investment.
Check your chimney or flue.
If your chimney is due for a sweep, get it done before the burning season gets properly underway. HETAS recommends getting your chimney swept twice a year.A clean chimney helps your stove work safely and efficiently. It also reduces the risk of blockages and chimney fires.
Think of it as giving your stove and flue an MOT and a full service.
Test your carbon monoxide alarm.
This one is non-negotiable.Make sure you have a working carbon monoxide alarm and test it before you start using your stove regularly again.
It takes seconds and it matters enormously. Never compromise.
Open the air vents
Your first fire needs plenty of air to get going.Open the vents before lighting, following your stove manufacturer’s instructions, and avoid closing them down too quickly.
Once the fire is established and the hardwood has caught, you can gradually adjust the airflow.
Use good, dry wood fuel
Use Ready to Burn certified kiln-dried logs, dry kindling and natural firelighters.
Do not use wet, treated, painted or treated wood because it will produce excess smoke, smell and heightened risk of stove and flue damage.
If you live in a smoke control area, make sure your appliance is approved for burning wood and follow your area’s rules.
Don’t overload the stove.
Remember, more wood does not automatically mean more heat.
If you overload the stove too soon, you can smother the flames and create more smoke. Build the fire steadily and let each stage allow the wood to catch properly.
Have a little…patience
The first fire of the season is not a race.
Your stove and flue have been resting for months. Give them a chance to warm up. Simply let the fire get going at its own pace. The less interference the better.
What if smoke still comes back into the room?
If you use the top-down method and still get smoke coming back into the room, do not ignore it.
A little hesitation at the very start can happen when the flue is cold, but persistent smoke is a sign that something needs attention.
Possible causes include:
- a cold or poorly drawing flue;
- a blocked or dirty chimney;
- wet or unsuitable wood;
- closed or restricted vents;
- insufficient ventilation in the room;
- negative air pressure in the house;
- strong wind or unusual weather conditions;
- a problem with the stove or installation.
If you are in any doubt, or if smoke continues to enter the room, stop using the appliance and speak to a qualified chimney sweep, stove installer or relevant heating professional.
The Log People’s top-down fire-lighting formula
If you remember one thing from reading this blog, make it this:Place hardwood at the bottom. Softwood laid above. Kindling on top. Nestle a couple of firelighters into the kindling to start – then light!
Let the fire work downwards so the heat can rise.
It is simple, practical and useful all burning season.
No fuss. No excess smoke. No frantic waving or fussing. Just a better quality burn that works every time – as long as you use Ready To Burn certified kiln dried logs.
Ready to give the top-down method a try?
If your log store is looking a bit bare, now is the time to stack up on your log burning ingredients!To light your fire this way, you need the full setup:
Ready to Burn kiln-dried hardwood logs, softwood logs, kindling sticks and natural wood wool firelighters. And some matches of course!
Remember:
Softwood to build the fire.
Hardwood to keep it going.
Kindling and firelighters to get things started.
We deliver right to your home, not the kerb, so you can get stocked up with Ready To Burn certified kiln dried logs with added convenience before the cold sets in.
Everything you need for the first fire of the season, and all your cosy fires after that.
Fire up the feel good!
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